Sword care and maintenance:


We recommend the following general maintenance guidelines to ensure the optimum life of your sword or saber:

General - Metal Components:

- Acids from fingerprints can react with metals and discolor metal components over time.

- Salts and other air contaminants (e.g., formaldehydes form carpets, etc.) can collect on metal surfaces over time and can also cause discoloration.

- Periodically, wipe your sword with a soft, dry cloth. We recommend monthly for harsh environments (e.g., high humidity, proximity to sea air, cities with heavy smog, etc.) and every few months for less harsh environments.

- Remove fingerprints and other oil marks with a soft, dry cloth.

Gold-Colored Components:

- Do not use abrasive metal polishes or metal wool on any gold-colored part. All gold-colored parts on WKC swords are gold-plated, except for special productions specified as lacquered brass (e.g., Citadel, West Point, etc.).

- Use abrasive "jeweler" cloths sparingly to remove any discolorations.

Air Force Swords:

- The hilt and scabbard fittings are silver-plated and then lacquered to achieve the antique, aluminum-color finish and to minimize tarnishing.

- Do not use abrasive metal polishes or metal wool on the "antiqued" sword components.

- Use abrasive "jeweler" cloths sparingly on the lacquered surfaces.


- All WKC blades are stainless steel, except the nickel-plated Army officer sabers and the special gold-plated and gold-blue blades.

- Discolorations or minor scratches can be removed with a "jeweler" cloth or a mild metal polish, such as a silver polish.

- Remove all polish residue with a final wipe of a soft, dry cloth.

- Never use heavy abrasive polishes, scouring pads, or metal wool as they will the polished finish of the blade.

- Avoid contact with acidic or alkaline substances as either may chemically react with metals in the stainless steel.

Special Notes for Gold-Blue Blades:

- The blue surface of the gold-blue blades are not the result of the familiar chemical "blueing" process that protects the steel from corrosion. On the contrary, the blue portion of the blade is a carbon steel that is susceptible to rust without proper care.

- Always store the blade outside of its scabbard with a light oil applied to the blade.

- The oil will make the blue surface darker; cleaning the blade with a household ammonia prior to use will restore the more brilliant blue look.


- Leather scabbards should only require an occasional wipe with a cloth moistened with a clear household silicon spray polish.

- Scuff marks in the leather can usually be repaired or hidden with ordinary shoe polish. Pay attention of that the colour of the polish is the same than the leather.

- Maintain nickel-plated scabbards as a general metal component.

- Maintain the stainless-steel Marine officer scabbards as described for blades above.

On-Going Care and Maintenance:

- After each use, completely wipe the sword with a clean, dry cloth to remove fingerprints, perspiration, and any residue.

- All ferrous materials, including "stainless" steel will rust in varying degrees if not maintained and with prolonged exposure to the elements.

- Whether displaying or storing your sword, periodically clean and wipe your sword and metal scabbards with a lightly oiled cloth to protect your sword.

- Because the cloth bag may wick humidity from the atmosphere, we recommend storing your sword in a plastic bag within the cloth bag.

- We recommend storing the sword unsheathed from the scabbard if storing for prolonged periods of time.

- If shipping or transporting your sword by air, securely wrap the sword in plastic to minimize condensation on the cool sword surfaces after the sword returns from the cooler high altitudes.