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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333
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OP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333 |
I recently showed this on another forum. Consensus was, its an ok SS-RZM, but the M31 liner was added later. The property stamp inside the dome is 15/SSG. The shell exterior has been lightly/gently wiped over with oil, the interior left as found.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 796
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 796 |
Hi Barry,
You can tell is an RZM helmet before you look inside.
The position of the very high helmet vents and close rivets are a dead give away.
A nice square on side shot and an square on frontal shot would be good.
The vents don't look high enough, could just be the angle of the pic, would like to see better pics.
I can do some of mine.. to show
Regards Mark
Last edited by Stirnpanzer; 02/19/2013 11:49 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333
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OP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333 |
Thanks Mark. I will take some shots as you suggest and post them here. Will take a few days to get the right available light, its too cold and damp outside for a rusty lid.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 693
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 693 |
I have owned many RZM helmets, this one looks identical to every one I have owned in every respect. It is also very common to see the M31 type liner in these helmet. The factory type liner was not very strong and wear very quickly. Red rust is active and currently damaging the helmet, it would be a good idea to remove it. Nice original helmet! Bob
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333
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OP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333 |
Thanks Bob. Suggestions on a safe method of neutralising the rust without damage to the remainder of the original finish would be very welcome.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 151
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 151 |
Any respectable militaria dealer/collector WILL NOT SAY TO REMOVE RUST/OR CLEAN IN ANY WAY. Once you start with removing patina/rust/stains, etc YOU CANNOT GO BACK!!! That is very bad advice.LIke these morons who rub mineral oil, or baby oil on old helmets, you get this stupid shine that NEVER will Go away.
So then what some idiots do is they take fine sand paper,or wet paper and try to buff out rust... and that is the worst thing to do, do not believe my rant on this advice. just ask around
Last edited by marksmilitaria in Cleveland; 02/20/2013 12:46 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333
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OP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333 |
Thank you. I have inspected thoroughly and I do not think the rust is live. I have the helmet in a controlled environment so I will just leave it exactly as found from storage, and regularly check it over.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,977 Likes: 33
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,977 Likes: 33 |
No dis respect to Mark in Cleveland but your choice of words (morons) was pretty harsh. For the record in regards to this helmet I concur with Bob. It would be best to get rid of the rust on the exterior of the helmet as best you can. This can be done any number of ways without damaging the helmet or adversly affecting the value. Many people clean patina with wax on helmets or oil and this does have an impact on value and in this regard you are correct. But no one is advocating that here. In this case rust is NOT patina and is harmful. Bob Iqbal is a longtime German helmet collector and dealer with an excellent worldwide reputation. No offence but in this case I bow to his knowledge and expertise. No offence intended, cheers, Ryan
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333
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OP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333 |
Thank you. I really appreciate getting a range of expert advice and opinion from members before doing anything to this untouched helmet. So, what would be a safe method of neutralising the rust without degrading the original finishes? I will try to take some better pictures, close ups, of the rusted areas.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,024 Likes: 1
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,024 Likes: 1 |
Bob is a well respected collector, dealer and author on helmets. As far as stopping the red rust, if this is something you just want to sell I would not touch it. If it's something you are going to keep for years in your collecton I would consider doing the absolute minimum to stop degredation.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333
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OP
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 333 |
Thank you, Paul. I agree, the minimum treatment it will be, if any at all. I do not like to disturb original finishes on any of my collectibles, either keepers or transient.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 693
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 693 |
Thanks Ryan and Paul! Just for the record, red rust is active, when it turns black it is inactive. I do not typically clean or touch anything unless it is to prevent further damage. Barry, I am sure Ryan is right about what he said on how to do it. Ryan is a smart guy and would never give bad information. Good Luck! Bob
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