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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 173
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OP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 173 |
Guys,
I have an otherwise very nice matching COF44 bayo that I got from an estate sale. For some reason, the vet removed all the finish off the pommel, cross guard and frog stud with a Dremel tool and left behind the grinder marks. I have it pretty well smoothed out now and am wondering what to use to give it the original blackish factory look?
What do you recommend?
Thanks, Lance
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 623
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 623 |
Lance, I surely hope that someone can help you with this problem!
Maybe a cold blue?
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,791 Likes: 43
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,791 Likes: 43 |
Nickle Black for nickle silver or white metal, PermaBlue or 44/40 for steel.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 173
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OP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 173 |
I had some Perma Blue I've had for a long time from another project and am quite happy with the results.
From this;
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 173
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OP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 173 |
To this, (sorry, other and better pics were too big).
Didn't really notice the different shades in the first pic until it was in the bright sunlight. Looked much better inside!
Last edited by lmrobil; 02/11/2011 06:40 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,791 Likes: 43
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,791 Likes: 43 |
I usually use 2 or 3 coats of blue, then a coat of boiled linseed oil. Let the oil soak in and dry. That should give a durable even finish.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 7,259 Likes: 1
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 7,259 Likes: 1 |
Don't be afraid to use 4/0 steel wool* and put on additional coats.
Jim
*Soak the steel wook in acetone first since it's coated with oil which inhibits blueing.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 173
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OP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 173 |
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.
Not bad for $25 from an estate sale, eh?
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,024 Likes: 2
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,024 Likes: 2 |
Super job there!
You're soundin' like a Canadian... Eh!
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