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Joined: Apr 2001
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
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I just got this combat bayonet from the Vet's dark basement, where it has been on a shelf for years!
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Apr 2001
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
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"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215 |
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215 |
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215 |
the blade (heavily greased);
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215 |
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,215
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
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I wiped off the grease, but there is no serial number;
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Apr 2001
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
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I really like it as it's never been in a collection before, and besides the German who had it in WWII, I am only the second owner!
Chief
(any idea why there is no serial number?)
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,154 Likes: 5
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,154 Likes: 5 |
Chief,
Your bayonet has no serial number because it is a commercial S84/98 made by Coppel. The scabbard should also not have a serial number and there should be no WaA markings. Look closely at the spine of the blade near the hilt and see if you see an eagle/letter marking.
"You can't please everyone, so you've got to please yourself." Ricky Nelson
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,199
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Joined: Jul 2001
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Interesting upside down variation of the ACS marking, and with plastik grips. best regards,Andy
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Joined: Apr 2001
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
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Yes, I see an eagle stamp on the spine, but no letter. What does it mean that it's a "commercial" S84/98 bayonet? It came from the Italian Campaign.
Chief
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Oct 2003
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Joined: Oct 2003
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Chief,
By "commercial" bayonet, I mean it is not military issue. These S84/98 bayonets were made for the military and have serial numbers and WaA markings due to military inspection. Some were made with commercial logos (like your Alcoso scales marking) and sold over the counter, used by various armed organizations, or issued to the police. If you find an eagle on the spine there should be a letter (probably poorly struck as usual) beneath one wing. This marking indicates the bayonet was an item of issue to the police.
You have an interesting, and collectable, "commercial" bayonet variation.
I hope this helps.
"You can't please everyone, so you've got to please yourself." Ricky Nelson
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,274
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,274 |
As George mentioned German police, Railway, Postal and other paramilitary organizations, who fielded armed troops inside and outside of Germany, equipped them with rifles and bayonets just like the Wehrmacht. Manufactured for governmental organizations Waffenamts = German Army inspectors that along with serial numbers clearly indicating Wehrmacht ownership. With “commercial” bayonets normally lacking both, although at least on some early examples they might have some kind of group or organization marking.
As far as German Police issue black Bakelite gripped bayonets by Coppel go there seem to be three markings variations: “ACS”, “ACS inverted” and “AWS”. Typically as George also mentioned with something like an Eagle/D or Eagle/F (very often hard to read or interpret) on the spine. As a group many of the “commercial” bayonets IMO seem to be scarcer than many of the military issue examples. FP
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Joined: Apr 2001
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OP
Joined: Apr 2001
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Thanks Guys! I will take another look, and maybe a picture of the spine when I get a chance. What would be a good way to clean off the grease and the surface rust?
Chief
"Gott Zur Ehr Dem N�chsten Zur Wehr"
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Joined: Oct 2003
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,154 Likes: 5 |
Chief,
Any good de-greaser will generally cut grease or more likely cosmoline. Don't use anything harsh like brake cleaner (it may break down the bakelite grips) but Hoppies gun solvent will do the job. When you get the grease off you can then tackle any surface rust. Red rust is active and should be removed but black rust is inactive and can stay or be removed at your discretion. Take the frog off before you attempt any cleaning with anything but oil.
George
"You can't please everyone, so you've got to please yourself." Ricky Nelson
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