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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 120
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OP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 120 |
...please could you tell me how to use it on my KM dagger? and if it can be used on KM badges, Iron Crosses and Spanges, how should I use it on them? Can it be used on the items written above?!
Please any information and direcctions will apreciated.
Fernado
PS: Sorry about my English lenguage skills, but I am trying to do my best.
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Joined: Feb 2000
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Joined: Feb 2000
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Your English is fine. I usually use a soft cloth, to pick up a bit of Ren-wax, then rub a thin coat on the item, making sure to cover the surface completely. I then give it a moment to set, and polish with another soft cloth. Tee-shirts are great for this It should work well on everything you name.
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OP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 120 |
Thanks Vern!
What about the Etched part of the blade? Can I put the Wax on it or leave it alone? I think about crossbar, grip and scabbard should be not problem, right?
Thanks again.
Fernando
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Ok, My Ren Wax arrived yesterday. I first pollished my Luft saber and scabbard and WOW, does it look good. More importantly, I'm hoping the wax will serve as a preservative for the Morrocan leather on the grip and scabbard. I then hit a 1st model luft, grip and scabbard, and sure enough it looks great. Seems like a wonderful product.
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German Sabers
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Joined: Apr 2006
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Joined: Apr 2006
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I have a large tin of the stuff and I am starting to treat a few items, didnt register to me to try it on the leather areas. So here goes......
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Joined: Aug 2001
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RenWax can be used on any type material. Leather, metal, paper, or anything else. Using it on etched metal should be done as it will NOT harm the etch. When any itme is properly cleaned and RenWax applied, the wax puts a protective seal on the area treated that is impervious to corrosion, fingerprints, and etc. I've used it for years and have seen ZERO ill effects. Best preservative that money can buy.
" Always interested in Aluminum fitted, rare, and superbly conditioned Army daggers." DJ Roach
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 120
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OP
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 120 |
Thanks a lot, yes I will try it too. How often does it should be used on the items? (one year, half a year, etc?)
Regards
Fernando
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,810 Likes: 46
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,810 Likes: 46 |
It really depends on how much the items are handled. I clean my daggers once a year. Guns are done more often.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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I need to get me some of this quickly. Do you strip the old wax off or do you just reapply over the old wax. Thanks
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Joined: Nov 2005
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quote: Originally posted by Mikee: I need to get me some of this quickly. Do you strip the old wax off or do you just reapply over the old wax. Thanks
Good question? Fernando
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,810 Likes: 46
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 6,810 Likes: 46 |
Not much of an answer, but it depends If everything looks OK on the piece, I apply over the old wax. If the piece needs cleaning, I do that first, then apply a new coat. You don't need a heavy coat, a little goes a long way.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Since we're still on the topic, I have another question I'm hoping so of you fellas can answer.
I renwaxed some of my heer sword portepees, which made them look fine and hopefully will protect them. However, 1 or 2 of them has a little red-rot and are pretty dry and becoming brittle. Should I use Pecards to soften, then apply some wax, or will renwax alone/Pecards alone be sufficient to correct to problem and inhibit further detereoration?
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German Sabers
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Joined: Jul 2004
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What do you use to clean your daggers before using the Ren Wax
Bob
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Joined: Feb 2000
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Joined: Feb 2000
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Here's a link to a discussion on leather that may help. Forum discussion on LeatherSudesy Ammonia with a soft cloth or old toothbrush for grips, leather, and fittings with patina I want to save. Semi-chrome for blades and fittings that I want to clean up bright
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quote: Originally posted by Gustavo: on this subject Hi gys I am ordering som Renaissance Wax from this UK based company, and i think its the best deal possible by far for Europeans. They sell the 200 ml can for only 7.50 pounds. http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/sundries/sundries31.html
Thanks Gustavo, I did take a look but........ This price (�7.50)does not include VAT @17.5% & their postage charges start at �7.50! Rip off! Here is another rip off. Shopping Cart (Prices in British Pounds) DESCRIPTION QUANTITY PRICE COST Renaissance Wax 200ml Tin 1 �7.29 (�10.82) �7.29 (�10.82) Subtotal �7.29 (�10.82) Shipping (Royal Mail) �3.95 (�5.86) VAT �1.97 (�2.92) Total �13.21 (�19.60) This by sylmasta.com in the UK By the time you get it the price has near doubled! I mean �3.95 for UK postage, really?..............
War is when your government tells you who the enemy is. Revolution is when you figure it out for yourself.
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Got my first SA Dagger 2 weeks ago from the wonderful Bill Shea & it's even nicer than i hoped (had spent 3 months looking for the best one in my price range). Now i've got to clean & protect it & i'm not great at these kind of things. I let my uncle open the parcel because he spent his life as a sword doctor, basicaly looking after butchers knives etc so i thought he'd handle with care but he basically handled the blade! So i should clean with semichrome paste going WITH the crossgrain & avoiding the motto. Do i use a clean cotton cloth? Then when i put the renaissance wax on does it just wipe on or do i need to work it like the paste with the grain only? Do i then leave it for a few minutes & wipe the exces off? What about the crossguards (they're the solid nickel type)? Sorry for the daft questions but i really can't afford to mess up such a nice dagger! Thanks, Ant.
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Don't use Simichrome at all for the time being as it is abrasive and should only be used when needed.
As to what to do, it would depend on whether you are going to take the knife apart. If you do decide to do it, you need an old 3/8" or a 10mm wrench ground flat.
In the meantime just put some of the wax on the blade - no need to use any particular technique - just put it on with your finger or a tissue and wipe it off again. Do this 2-3 times and see if it improves the looks.
Dave
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I have a craftsman dremel tool and the wrench that came with it is perfect to take a dagger apart
Bob
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quote: Originally posted by Dave Hohaus: Don't use Simichrome at all for the time being as it is abrasive and should only be used when needed.
As to what to do, it would depend on whether you are going to take the knife apart. If you do decide to do it, you need an old 3/8" or a 10mm wrench ground flat.
In the meantime just put some of the wax on the blade - no need to use any particular technique - just put it on with your finger or a tissue and wipe it off again. Do this 2-3 times and see if it improves the looks.
Dave
Thanks Dave, much appreciated, i see no reason to take it apart & apart from the fact that i know it's had fingers on it recently, the blade is in very nice shape. So i'll get some Ren wax & give it a go, that will be enough to make sure those finger marks don't come back to haunt me years down the line! Ant.
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