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#191560 09/06/2006 09:11 AM
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...please could you tell me how to use it on my KM dagger? and if it can be used on KM badges, Iron Crosses and Spanges, how should I use it on them? Can it be used on the items written above?!

Please any information and direcctions will apreciated.

Fernado

PS: Sorry about my English lenguage skills, but I am trying to do my best.

#191561 09/06/2006 12:23 PM
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Your English is fine. I usually use a soft cloth, to pick up a bit of Ren-wax, then rub a thin coat on the item, making sure to cover the surface completely. I then give it a moment to set, and polish with another soft cloth. Tee-shirts are great for this Wink It should work well on everything you name.


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#191562 09/07/2006 02:58 AM
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Thanks Vern!

What about the Etched part of the blade? Can I put the Wax on it or leave it alone? I think about crossbar, grip and scabbard should be not problem, right?

Thanks again.

Fernando

#191563 09/07/2006 11:00 AM
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on this subject

Hi gys

I am ordering som Renaissance Wax from this UK based company, and i think its the best deal possible by far for Europeans. They sell the 200 ml can for only 7.50 pounds.

http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/sundries/sundries31.html

#191564 09/07/2006 01:45 PM
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Ok,
My Ren Wax arrived yesterday. I first pollished my Luft saber and scabbard and WOW, does it look good. More importantly, I'm hoping the wax will serve as a preservative for the Morrocan leather on the grip and scabbard. I then hit a 1st model luft, grip and scabbard, and sure enough it looks great. Seems like a wonderful product.


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#191565 09/07/2006 04:22 PM
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I have a large tin of the stuff and I am starting to treat a few items, didnt register to me to try it on the leather areas. So here goes......

#191566 09/07/2006 05:45 PM
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RenWax can be used on any type material. Leather, metal, paper, or anything else. Using it on etched metal should be done as it will NOT harm the etch. When any itme is properly cleaned and RenWax applied, the wax puts a protective seal on the area treated that is impervious to corrosion, fingerprints, and etc. I've used it for years and have seen ZERO ill effects. Best preservative that money can buy.


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#191567 09/08/2006 01:55 AM
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Thanks a lot, yes I will try it too. How often does it should be used on the items? (one year, half a year, etc?)

Regards

Fernando

#191568 09/08/2006 01:44 PM
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It really depends on how much the items are handled. I clean my daggers once a year. Guns are done more often.


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#191569 09/09/2006 06:52 AM
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I need to get me some of this quickly. Do you strip the old wax off or do you just reapply over the old wax. Thanks

#191570 09/09/2006 12:14 PM
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#191571 09/09/2006 12:35 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Mikee:
I need to get me some of this quickly. Do you strip the old wax off or do you just reapply over the old wax. Thanks


Good question?

Fernando

#191572 09/09/2006 02:11 PM
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Not much of an answer, but it depends Wink If everything looks OK on the piece, I apply over the old wax. If the piece needs cleaning, I do that first, then apply a new coat. You don't need a heavy coat, a little goes a long way.


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#191573 09/09/2006 06:42 PM
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Since we're still on the topic, I have another question I'm hoping so of you fellas can answer.

I renwaxed some of my heer sword portepees, which made them look fine and hopefully will protect them. However, 1 or 2 of them has a little red-rot and are pretty dry and becoming brittle. Should I use Pecards to soften, then apply some wax, or will renwax alone/Pecards alone be sufficient to correct to problem and inhibit further detereoration?


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#191574 09/10/2006 01:07 AM
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What do you use to clean your daggers before using the Ren Wax


Bob
#191575 09/10/2006 02:36 AM
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Here's a link to a discussion on leather that may help.

Forum discussion on Leather

Sudesy Ammonia with a soft cloth or old toothbrush for grips, leather, and fittings with patina I want to save. Semi-chrome for blades and fittings that I want to clean up bright Wink


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#191576 09/22/2006 12:34 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Gustavo:
on this subject

Hi gys

I am ordering som Renaissance Wax from this UK based company, and i think its the best deal possible by far for Europeans. They sell the 200 ml can for only 7.50 pounds.

http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/sundries/sundries31.html



Thanks Gustavo, I did take a look but........
This price (�7.50)does not include VAT @17.5% & their postage charges start at �7.50!
Rip off!

Here is another rip off.
Shopping Cart (Prices in British Pounds) DESCRIPTION QUANTITY PRICE COST
Renaissance Wax 200ml Tin 1
�7.29 (�10.82) �7.29 (�10.82)
Subtotal �7.29 (�10.82)
Shipping (Royal Mail) �3.95 (�5.86)
VAT �1.97 (�2.92)
Total �13.21 (�19.60)

This by sylmasta.com in the UK
By the time you get it the price has near doubled! I mean �3.95 for UK postage, really?.............. Mad


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#191577 03/10/2007 10:50 AM
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Got my first SA Dagger 2 weeks ago from the wonderful Bill Shea & it's even nicer than i hoped (had spent 3 months looking for the best one in my price range).
Now i've got to clean & protect it & i'm not great at these kind of things.
I let my uncle open the parcel because he spent his life as a sword doctor, basicaly looking after butchers knives etc so i thought he'd handle with care but he basically handled the blade!
So i should clean with semichrome paste going WITH the crossgrain & avoiding the motto. Do i use a clean cotton cloth?
Then when i put the renaissance wax on does it just wipe on or do i need to work it like the paste with the grain only? Do i then leave it for a few minutes & wipe the exces off?
What about the crossguards (they're the solid nickel type)?
Sorry for the daft questions but i really can't afford to mess up such a nice dagger!
Thanks, Ant.

#191578 03/10/2007 02:44 PM
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Don't use Simichrome at all for the time being as it is abrasive and should only be used when needed.

As to what to do, it would depend on whether you are going to take the knife apart. If you do decide to do it, you need an old 3/8" or a 10mm wrench ground flat.

In the meantime just put some of the wax on the blade - no need to use any particular technique - just put it on with your finger or a tissue and wipe it off again. Do this 2-3 times and see if it improves the looks.

Dave

#191579 03/10/2007 04:47 PM
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I have a craftsman dremel tool and the wrench that came with it is perfect to take a dagger apart


Bob
#191580 03/10/2007 04:59 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Dave Hohaus:
Don't use Simichrome at all for the time being as it is abrasive and should only be used when needed.

As to what to do, it would depend on whether you are going to take the knife apart. If you do decide to do it, you need an old 3/8" or a 10mm wrench ground flat.

In the meantime just put some of the wax on the blade - no need to use any particular technique - just put it on with your finger or a tissue and wipe it off again. Do this 2-3 times and see if it improves the looks.

Dave

Thanks Dave, much appreciated, i see no reason to take it apart & apart from the fact that i know it's had fingers on it recently, the blade is in very nice shape. So i'll get some Ren wax & give it a go, that will be enough to make sure those finger marks don't come back to haunt me years down the line!
Ant.


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