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#171207 08/18/2007 02:05 AM
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I am in the process of buying the SA and NSKK daggers craig posted. There appears to be some smudging on the upper scabbard fitting of the NSKK. I was wondering if anyone has ever used SC on plated fittings and if so how did it turn out.


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Bob,

I have used semichrome for over 20 years with no bad effects. I tend to apply semichrome when they come into the collection which cleans and polishes the blade or plated fittings. I then leave the edged weapon alone to patina. The semichrome will not scratch the finish but will leave a thin protective film that I like.


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Thanks Orpo
I have used it on black spots on blades but never on fittings. Just wanted to make sure that it wouldnt also remove the plating. I bought the SA and NSKK RZM that Craig posted in the Edged Weapons section.


Bob
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Bob,

Use on raw steel or nickel plated fittings is fine. It is also OK on brass or tombak. Don't use it, or any other polish, on gilt though. I use sudsy amonia on gilt finishes.


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CAn you look at the obverse top scabbard fitting on the NSKK in the picture just below the picture of the vet? What should I use on that? What do you mean sudsy amonia? Thanks for you help.


http://daggers.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/160093573/m/9270058505


Bob
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Semichrome is fine for the NSKK scabbard fitting. I would not get polish into the darkened burnishing on the blade etch though. Sudsy amonia is a brand of amonia that is good for cleaning delicate finishes like fire gilt where metal polish may degrade these finishes.


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Thanks for the info. I have had success with SC on blades being carefull to stay away from the burnishing but just wanted to make sure how it worked on the fittings before so I wouldnt damage it.


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I'm with George. Use the sudsy on gilted hilts ,etc. Semichrome works fine for plated fittings, like you mentioned on an SA or NSKK. I've used it many times on these types of fittings without any adverse effects. Avoid the blades on daggers with crossgraining. I made the mistake when I 1st started colecting. I tested on very small area on an Army dagger, and with just very light rubbing managed to remove all the noticeable crossgraing. Oops. Remember, SC has an abrassive element with an amonia cleaning compound.

Just and FYI. For what you mentioned I think you'll be fine however.

T


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Just a quick side-note. Over the weekend I was playing with my toys (daggers) and noticed the blade on a 2nd model luft was developing pin-point oxidation. Gave the blade a gentle rub with Semichrome and wow, she came out wonderfully. Then hit her with a nice coat of Renwax to seal it and provide a layer of protection.

The stuff really does work well. You just need to be careful with it.


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Here's an example of what not to do:

Years ago when I had first started collecting and first tried Semichrome, I applied a very small amount to a soft rag and lightly started to pollish this Army blade. Immediately, it began to remove the crossgraining, so naturally I stopped. As you can see by the photo, that small area that is discolored is where the crossgraining was removed.

Point being: I would avoid using Semichrome at all on a blade with crossgraining. Even the most minimal amount of the substance and the most minimal amount of light pollishing can damage the blade as seen here.

SV400263.JPG (41.65 KB, 399 downloads)

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On the other hand, here is the 2nd pattern Luft I had discussed a post or 2 up the page. The Semichrome worked wonderfully and removed all the pinpoint oxidation. None the less, one must still excercise caution when using the stuff.

Don't forget to apply a coat of protection after using the cleaning agent. Renwax and other preservatives work very well for this and essentially make the blade impervious to finger print acids, dust and external oxidation caused be environmental factors.

SV400264.JPG (41.03 KB, 395 downloads)

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Last.

SV400265.JPG (42.46 KB, 392 downloads)

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Is that black spot on the army blade where you applied the simichrome? I find it hard to believe that simichrome would do this much damage to a blade. The crossgrain is a pattern in the steel and to remove it you would have to remove layers of the steel itself. Certainly not good for a product that is lauded by most of the top dealers Confused

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It's actually not black. It appears that way from the photo. It removed the crossgraining and made it shiny (mirror like)...almost like a Luft blade or saber blade. That's the deal.

Definitely not intended for a brushed looking surface.

So there is no confusion, I have reposted the photo with the portion of the blade that shows the damage that was caused.

It's a great product, however, like stated, I would not use it again on a surface with crossgraining. There are numerous threads discussing this problem here at GDC. Particularly as it relates to SA and SS blades.

updated_army_spot.JPG (28.56 KB, 375 downloads)

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I have been using Simichrome on blades for over 30 years and have NEVER had this happen to a blade I was working with.
Ron Weinand
Weinand Militaria


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I agree with Ron, if used correctly I observe that simichrome actually enhances the crossgrain.

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I was under the impression that Armies didnt have cross graining?


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Most armies have a polished blade (i.e one that exhibits crossgraining). Early armies are often found with plated blades.

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To elaborate,
The spot was caused by applying and rubbing the Semichrome in light, circular motion. My understanding is that if you are going to use this product on a cross-grained blade or a surface with brused appearance, it is critical that you follow the direction of the grain. Obviously, in this instance I did not. Although I fouled up, I did not apply much pressure, nor did the circular pollishing continue for more than a second or two. Again, I would be reluctant to use the product again on crossgrained blades.

If you are new to the product, read up on proper usage. When using on plated or gilted hilts, one must excercise extreme caution as well. Everyone has thier preferences. I utilize a mixture of products. Semichrome, homemade sudsy-ammonia, Renwax, and Pecards.

Find what works best for you and work with it. But remember, damage is permanent. Certainly patina will return after time. Crossgraining and plating will not.

That's my story and i'm sticking to it.

T


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I just happened to be reading this post and want to add my 2 cents. I totaly agree with Sword-Fish. I used Semi-Chrome on a Luftwaffe 2nd blade that had cross-graining (not the plated type). It took the cross-graining right off the blade and left me with a small very shinny spot. I was trying to polish an area that had a small black spot and a touch of pitting. After that, it bothered me so much that I sold the dagger. If you use it on a blade with cross-grainning, use it sparingly and rub lightly.

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Thule-
For sure. Plated blades and semichrome typically do not present problems, when applied sparingly and pollished conservatively. I too had a small area of darkening on that blade, in which I tried to use the semichrome to remove. I had thought that applied sparingly, and pollishing in a circular motion would not create mirroring. It did however. I had used it on another blade working with the grain and aborted after I could tell it was still removing the crossgraining. I know many collectors have had successes with SA/SS blades, working with the crossgraining as opposed to against it. After my experience with that some years back, I would be reluctant to try again. Never had any problems utilizing the product on plated blades like sabers.


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Sword-Fish, thanks for your response. We both agree, use it sparingly.


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