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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 832
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 832 |
Fantastic!!I used to build models years ago ,mostly Tamiya kits,I think that is what started my TR intrests.Great work!!I am assume your other half is doing the fotos for you?Forgive me if I am wrong.But if I am correct,You make a great team!!I wonder if there was a way to adapt a scale figure with goggles to appear to be welding?Perhaps a piece of fibre optic thread and one of those new diode flashlights hidden in the base??of the display??Sorry,But you have inspired me!Great stuff !Thanks Geoff.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659
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OP
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659 |
Gentleman, thank you for the comments, again greatly appreciated. Geoff I really like that welder idea, if you don�t mind I might try to make that happen on a future project. This one has a couple painters earmarked for its display which is already built.
Yes, Tanya is my partner in life. Not only helping with the photos but she does most of the work for us over in the For Sale section and our auctions and real world sales as well. She does have a small dagger collection, need to have her post them sometime.
Rick
"...a salute to a General is customary, Herr Blade; Even on the left coast."
the Razor has landed!
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 832
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 832 |
Rick I would be very proud if you used the welder Idea! If you wouldnt mind..If it comes to pass,I would love an autographed 8x10 foto of the welder signed by the artist and photographer for my war room.Keep up the Great work y'all!!G.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 15,096 Likes: 99
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 15,096 Likes: 99 |
When I was a kid in the 1950's, I used to build endless tanks and planes, although there was not a very good selection. And I was not that good a modeler, either.
After a bit, when they got broken, I would take them to our workshop and give them "battle fatigue". I would use heated pins or small nails to simulate impact points of bullets and use painted cotton for flames. Sometimes I would heat the plastic crew figures until they folded over the tank turret or inside airplaine cabin to simulate injuries.
Dave
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659
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OP
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659 |
Hey Geoff Tanya already found something to use for the power unit, one of those tiny flasher units for things like Halloween figures that you pin to your lapel. Some flash at a more random pace than others and that�s what we�re looking for now. I�m also searching for a 1/35th scale welder. No need for a uniform, he�s a shop guy so coveralls or work cloths are fine. Welding tanks should be easy to find. I decided that the next project will be my July 1945 KingTiger II and the welder will be added to that base. This is going to be fun, I�m really looking forward to it! Dave, we did the same thing. Did the battle of Kursk once with my buds and all of our junked out tanks. Used standard war-game rules with a twist, BB guns and fire! Losers tanks were burned on the battlefield! Crazy kids! Still working on the road wheels and tyres for the JP, 32 of �em! Also have a set of metal tracks assembled, painted and weathered. Been busy but with one of the more tedious aspects of German tank building, panzer road wheels! Rick
"...a salute to a General is customary, Herr Blade; Even on the left coast."
the Razor has landed!
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 117
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 117 |
Not the welder. But an mecanic... 1/35 scale K�bel workshop. Just placed diffrntly, looks good, perhaps usabel for the welding projekt? /Thomas PS due to this thread, I am thinking of digging out all models making stuff from the closet and build an Me 109 in an larger scale.
------------------------------------------------ GDC silver badge #368
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Joined: Jun 2006
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Joined: Jun 2006
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I�m going to challenge all GDC model builders to dig into those spare parts drawers and see what you can make of all that stuff collecting dust! As a little something to break up the monotony of finishing all those road wheels I started working on my dio-base. On my better projects I like to build a small something for them to reside on. Many times I�ve used a standard 1/35th cobblestone road section, add a few things, a little weathering, some rubber stick on feet from the hardware store and there you go, a mini dio-base. Really helps when moving your models around in the house for various reasons, you can pick them up via the base versus always having to handle the vehicle itself. For this particular build I wanted something depicting the conditions in the first days these vehicles were up and running. A thin layer of snow outlines the shop roads, its damp, cold, winter time. For this I needed snow and ended up using two different products for the end result. The first product I tried made by Woodland Scenics is like $8 for a 32 oz. shaker. Applied easily and looked good on my daughter�s base for one of her T-34s, but when I applied a wash to muddy the edges of the snow on my base it didn�t look very good afterwards. The �snow� is shaped like sugar and that�s what the wash made it look like, the edge of a pile of sugar! So we tried another snow product put out by Games Workshop. Shaped like little slivers and as light as dust the stuff was also a little pricey, $8 for 15g. Again easy to apply, I placed it over the other stuff with no problem. Plus it works well with the oil wash. Conclusion, use the cheap stuff as a base filler to build up to the thickness you want, use the nice fluffy stuff as a finish coat. But I still wasn�t happy with the overall base. Something was missing, something still wasn�t right. Then it hit me! The cobblestones looked good with all the various colors from mud to oil grime, but only when the wash was wet! That was it! When the wash dried you had this sparkling white snow next to this dead flat road. I was missing a wet surface from all the snow melting and all the runoff on the paved areas. So how do I make a rain slick road? Never done rain before. Minwax to the rescue! I was trying to think of something I already had that I could put over the oil based wash and along the edge of the snow that was thin and easy to apply with a brush and would still look wet when dried. Plus I wanted just a little fill in around the stones and some of the low areas. Clear gloss polyurethane, 2 coats. Went on smooth as glass, no brush marks, plenty of working time and didn�t disturb anything that it was added two or over. I know, still crazy after all these years, but now its only used for good. Rick
"...a salute to a General is customary, Herr Blade; Even on the left coast."
the Razor has landed!
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659
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OP
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659 |
"...a salute to a General is customary, Herr Blade; Even on the left coast."
the Razor has landed!
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659
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OP
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659 |
"...a salute to a General is customary, Herr Blade; Even on the left coast."
the Razor has landed!
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659
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OP
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659 |
OT but I did find something real neat for the future welder figure... http://www.sceneryexpress.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EZ7002
"...a salute to a General is customary, Herr Blade; Even on the left coast."
the Razor has landed!
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659
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OP
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 659 |
...and yes I'm still painting wheels and tyres... Rick
"...a salute to a General is customary, Herr Blade; Even on the left coast."
the Razor has landed!
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