|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,590 Likes: 11
|
OP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,590 Likes: 11 |
Can I get opinions on storage of edged weapons?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,365
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,365 |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 130
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 130 |
out. but if it has a leather scabbard it might cause deformation of the scabbard. in order to prevent that, you should make an insert of the same shape as the blade.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,590 Likes: 11
|
OP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,590 Likes: 11 |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 812 Likes: 1
|
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 812 Likes: 1 |
Absolutely, 100% OUT...and keep it out!!!!
I Love This Stuff Von Ryan
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 300
|
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 300 |
As I see on the pic this apply also for the daggers.Btw nice display.Are the black hangers DIY?
????? ????
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14 |
Pardon a question from someone ignorant on these matters but what is the reason behind storing the blade out of the scabbard? Moisture issue? Just curious.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,321
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,321 |
Sweet display Wayne, It's all a matter of opnion Doc, i prefer out as running the blade in and out of the scabbard will add runner marks. Just about all of these that were liberated were stored in the scabbard for a period of time. As to the moistrue question that is what the blade buffer pad was intended for to keep out moisture, dirt etc.. The vet bring backs that have minty blades i have encountered had oil or cosmoline caked on the blade or stored in a sock drawer or simular away from moisture. I just wish more were wiped down after handeling them as acid from the fingers will harm the blade faster than moisture. When storing them in or outside of the scabbard it should be cleaned of any foreign matter with either Flitz, semi chrome. I prefer Sudsy amoinia on etchings and rinsed under hot tap water (not too hot)dried then coated with a non-corrosive wax like ren wax. Even after wax is applied the blade should still be wiped down with a very soft cloth every few months or so as dust will settle on the blade that could react with even the wax coating and over time will cause spoting. I do prefer Nu Finish car wax, i never had a problem with it and it's non-corrosive just don't get it in the etching. Just apply, let haze and wipe with a soft cloth and repeat a second time (do not let it dry on the blade overnight). when done the blade will have a smooth silky feel when wiped with a clean soft cloth and if you ever want to clean the wax off just wash with sudsy amonia as mentioned above or use flitz. Sudsy amonia works excellent on etched blades without removing any frosting. For etched blades cleaned w/sudsy amonia use a very soft tooth brush that can be made even softer when dipped in a cup of Hot tap water for a few minutes, just don't get too agressive with the toothbrush let the amonia do the work for you and be patient in a few minutes any grime will loosen right up, if not rinse and repeat. Just be sure the product is Sudsy Amonia not stright amonia, stright amonia is too strong on the etched frosting. Never use any polish or amonia on the Sa daggers with the black coating in the etching like the Gebruder Heller in my avatar it will remove the coating. I have used Sudsy amonia on sword hilts with great sucess too. Stored in a dust free display case is the best way to display any edged weapon. I do this routine every 6 months to a year just like one would care for a firearm.
EW
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 14 |
Wow, thank you for the very thorough answer, Eric.
I think I'm pretty lucky that the sword I have is in such good shape despite the "benign neglect" it has received over the last 60+ years. It's really not been handled much in decades and always wiped after handling. Its been in my gun safe for the last dozen or so years, which is humidity controlled, but when I was growing up in was just hanging up on the wall in our basement, which was anything but humidity controlled! After carefully inspecting both the blade and scabbard, the only rust is a tiny superficial scratch on the blade.
My goal now is to display this blade, so I really appreciate the advice.
BTW, greetings from a fellow Michigander! I live near the Tip of the Mitt.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 429
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 429 |
Here is my two cents on the subject. I have have my sword in storage for the last 25 years. All stored in the scabbards. I have never had a problem. Each has a hilt case of some sort and they are all kept n hard gun cases or cardboard boxes. Each one looks like it did the day I bought it. In contrast, my good friend has a US navy saber that was purchased brand new about 25 years ago. It has been hanging on his office wall ever since. The once bright and shiney gold finish is now a soft matt fininsh , very much like that which we see on Third Reich officer sabers. I believe the contaminants in the air will slowly tarnish and degrade the gilt finish on swords. For preservation, keep them covered. Display presents a whole set of challenges, of course. The nickle plating on the sword blades if probably imperviousl to air polltants, if you keep it waxed or at least clean you should be OK. Just my opinion, FWIW, your mileage may vary. Joe S
|
|
|
Forums42
Topics31,777
Posts330,938
Members7,695
|
Most Online5,900 Dec 19th, 2019
|
|
8 members (Jonesy, Mikee, seany, Gaspare, Dave, Nietzsche, Vern, fischer),
176
guests, and
162
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
|