UBB.threads Forums Edged Weapons The BCN Bayonet Forum KS98 Eickhorn Scabbard Too Tight

I recently won a KS98 dress bayonet at auction by Eickhorn. It looks just like my other KS98 bayonets. But when you take the blade out or put it in the scabbard it is tight and there is resistance. It is causing runners on the blade.
Could this be a reproduction scabbard? Or does this just sometimes happen?

Anttom:

I have a similar issue with my Eickhorn police bayonet that I picked up from Terry K at the SOS. I had a long discussion about this with Ed Sunday, whose advice to me I will pass on to you.

He suggested that I carefully remove the scabbard screw and the scabbard throat. Along with the throat will come the internal runners which are attached to the throat. Clean the runners and wax them and straighten them out if they are too wavy. At the same time,use compressed air (like form those cans you buy at computer stores to blow out your keyboard) to blow out any residual loose gunk from the scabbard. Place the runners and the throat back in to the scabbard, but before screwing it back, try to reinsert the blade. If ok, screw it down, carefully to avoid scratches. If not, ok, do more to straighten the bands.

I haven't yet done this with mine, but will over the Easter holidays.

Maybe, Ed could add to this or point out where my understanding is wrong.

John

I tried it but the tiny screw on the throat would not come out. I did spray compressed air into the scabbard, but that didn't do anything.
I can feel the internal runners compressing against the blade when I insert it into the scabbard. I guess this is one I won't unsheath very much.

Anttom:

Better yet, don't sheath it at all... lots of collectors keep the blades separate from the sheaths. I do that with my etched blades.

John

Try a drop of graphite oil or penetrating opl on the scabbard throat screw. It's also helpful to use a screwdriver that gives you a strong turn but is narrow enough not to bugger up the screw. With the right tool, most screws come out without too much trouble.

Sorry John about the scabbard but I'm sure it can be seperated.

I think the leather shrinks over time so the runners are extra tight against the blade. Any blade I buy never goes back in the scabbard unless I take it apart first and inspect it. So many collectors may not like me taking the scabbards apart but bad runners can screw up a fine blade. I collect bayonets not scabbards.

Terry:

I keep my scabbards and blades separate for my etched bayos, but not for most of my other bayos or daggers.

Mr Paul Hogle will be visiting and staying with me over the Easter weekend and I figure that a scabbard and runner rework project is just the thing for the two of us to bond over while our wives are off spending out hard earned dagger money.

John

John

I'm sure you will have sucess on your project. A few years ago I looked at a bayonet at the SOS and when I pulled it out of the scabbard I heard this terrbile noise. You can see in the picture what happen to the blade. As I was talking to the owner he put it back in the scabbard. I didn't know what to say to the guy so I bought it and it has never seen the scabbard again. Oh yes the scratch is on both sides of the blade.

RRRRRRiiiiiiiPPPPPP!!!!

I Love This Stuff
Von Ryan

Terry:

It breaks my heart to see such a fine looking blade scarred like that.

Wayne:

Nice etch. I love it.

John

Yes John You are correct in what we talked about earlier. Terry that scratch may be able to be feathered out so to speak with a high speed buffer and the proper compound, so as not to remove too much plating. Most of my Police and Dress bayos have barely any heavy or unsightly scratches. I have allways removed the runners from my blades and released the runner pressure so as not to add any more unsightly scratches. I use a product called Aerokroil. It was reccomended to me some time back and it is one of the best at breaking free very stubborn rusted screws without tearing them up. I use this on Guns and in my Watch repair business. This product is not cheap as it runs around $16 dollars for 13ozs. But it's a life saver especially when I've got a Rusty 40's Rolex that needs help !

By the way Wayne that blade is killer !

I hadn't fixed the scabbard of the above bayonet
so I thought I would take it apart and show you how it looked.








Here is how it looks after I did a little polishing. I started out with 400 grit and ended with polishing paper.