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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 20
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OP
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 20 |
Good evening everybody!
I just received my 1st dagger, an unissued SA, and I would like some hints on its 'maintenance'
By checking out other forums, I would use nevrdull first, then just a few REN wax, wait 'till it's dry then remove it
Since I live in an extremely humid and 'salty' city, I would like to take really good care of the scabbard, can I use ren wax on the scabbard or there is a better/more specific product?
once all the cleaning is done, I would like to expose the dagger in a small showcase, does it make sense or it's better to leave it in the scabbard?
I know, that's a lot of questions, but maybe this subject and the answers of the wiser gurus of the forum can be helpful for a lot of people
Thank you in advance!
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,023 Likes: 31
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,023 Likes: 31 |
PLEASE NO NEVRDULL if you don�t want to destroy the character of any dagger!!! You also can forget any resale for a comparable (to buying) price.
Renaissance Wax is ok. But be careful on laquered parts. Might get too shiny.
Regards,
wotan, gd.c-b#105
"Never look for sqare eggs" as a late owner of an original FHH-dagger used to say.
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 20
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OP
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 20 |
Thanks Wotan,
So should I just use renwax or there is a better product than nevrdull to be used before?
If I put the dagger back in the scabbard, does it make sense to put just a little bit of oil on the blade in order not to damage the blade?
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 682
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 682 |
If it's unissued I would start cleaning it.
Die Treue ist das Mark der Ehre!
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,814 Likes: 18
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,814 Likes: 18 |
Don't use oil. It will eventually attract dirt and it can be very damaging to plated blades by causing the plating to lift.
Renwax lightly applied works on everything.
John
Always looking for Eickhorns and etched bayonets.
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 682
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 682 |
Sorry, my mistake... I wouldn't clean it...
Die Treue ist das Mark der Ehre!
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,814 Likes: 18
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,814 Likes: 18 |
Darn it, Panzerfaust! I just went and cleaned all my minty daggers based on your advice. John
Always looking for Eickhorns and etched bayonets.
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 682
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 682 |
Well then there's only one solution John...send them all to me and I'll take care of them! LOL
G
Die Treue ist das Mark der Ehre!
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 20
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OP
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 20 |
Any particular product or advice for properly cleaning the blade?
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 20
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OP
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 20 |
Also, the dagger is unissued but the plating next to the guards is starting to show some mild oxidation and corrosion, I would definitely stop it and preserve the best shape possible, any tip?
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 942
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 942 |
If you wish to clean the blade simichrome paste and a soft cloth can be used. Put a small pea sized amount on the blade and rub across the blade starting near the grip (the same way as the cross grain). You can use a clean piece of the cloth to clean the paste off. Don't go mad though you can do harm and be careful near any motto. The plated cross guards react with the moisture in the wood and over time cause the plating to oxidise and lift. You cannot really remedy this but a small amount of spray oil (WD40 here in the UK) can be wiped over the cross guards with a cloth to help slow down further oxidisation. Please note cleaning blades will not get rid of most marks and is only normally done to remove grease and fine marks. When you see the comment along the lines 'there is some greying to the blade which should clean off', it will not !!! Hope this helps
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