#3015
03/18/2009 12:48 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366
|
OP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366 |
The blade of this SS dagger has what appears to be a coating of old oil which has become quite difficult if not impossible to remove. A friend of mine told me that soaking the blade in motor oil may free the old residue....he said to just submerge it in oil and forget about it for a few months. This is a full Rhom by Herder, and as bad as it is, I do not wish to make it worse. Has anyone been successful in cleaning up a blade using this method? Thanks, R.W.
|
|
|
#3016
03/18/2009 12:50 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366
|
OP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366 |
|
|
|
#3017
03/18/2009 06:15 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,689
|
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,689 |
Certainly think it would not do any harm and it seems possible it could help?.
|
|
|
#3018
03/18/2009 06:22 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366
|
OP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366 |
Hi Mongo, I have enjoyed viewing your postings...your collection is superb. Thanks for the come-back...I think I shall give the oil bath trick a whirl and see if it does any good.
|
|
|
#3019
03/19/2009 02:37 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 22
|
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 22 |
You might want to try sudsy ammonia first. Use it with a soft bristled brush (I use a baby toothbrush.... I figure they make them soft enough for a baby's gums, so they shouldn't hurt a blade). Then rinse off the ammonia with water (or a clean rag that is wet... just be sure to get the ammonia off). Finally, make sure you dry the blade with a soft cloth. If it's dried oil, I think this will take a good bit off.
Good luck!
|
|
|
#3020
03/19/2009 03:06 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366
|
OP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366 |
Thanks for the tip. I shall try it...I am leery of taking the dagger apart to soak the blade, but I really want to try cleaning it. I think this is a good first trial method and can be done with the grip still in place.
|
|
|
#3021
03/19/2009 03:50 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,290
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,290 |
|
|
|
#3022
03/19/2009 03:53 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,414
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,414 |
You may try mineral spirits?
In Memory of Joe Mann Medal of Honor Recipient July 8, 1922 � September 19, 1944
|
|
|
#3023
03/19/2009 04:42 PM
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,344
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,344 |
good luck with any or all these methods,,post pics when finished with your blade...
|
|
|
#3024
03/19/2009 09:38 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,025 Likes: 1
|
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,025 Likes: 1 |
falstaff2k,
My amateurish 2 cent thought.
Are you certain that the residue is 'dried oil'? I would imagine any of the above would be remedies if it is for sure that substance. I don't believe there would be much of a problem in removing or cleaning dried oil off.
I might also offer a suggestion of soaking the blade with �Break Free clp� (cleaner-lubricant-preservative) Highly effective with cleaning imbedded dirt and crud from guns with absolutely no after effects.
Like I say, if it's only dried oil, I wouldn't imagine any serious or in depth problems and also as I say, only my 2 cents.
Respectfully,
John
|
|
|
#3025
03/26/2009 12:55 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 550
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 550 |
Everything mentioned so far should work, but WD-40 is a cheap quick way to remove cosmoline or dried grease from metal. I've used it for small jobs on firearms, but use kerosene for larger projects. WD-40 is mostly kerosene anyway so it works just as well.
|
|
|
#3026
03/26/2009 08:36 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366
|
OP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366 |
WD-40 treatment in progress....awaiting results.
|
|
|
#3027
03/27/2009 05:23 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366
|
OP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 366 |
So far, WD-40 has had no affect on the blade.
|
|
|
#3028
03/27/2009 06:25 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 550
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 550 |
I have to agree with John, I don't believe the problem is dried oil. I've used WD-40 to remove dried gunk from firearms that hadn't been cleaned since the turn of the century.
|
|
|
#3029
05/05/2009 03:44 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,321
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,321 |
Just currious if you still have the problem if so try Etched Blades method with Sudsy Amonia, seems to work on dired gunk very well. Let it soak and lightly hit it with a soft tooth brush (just make sure you rinse the tooth brush out good before the wife uses it in the morning)hehehe. I cringe at the thought of removing any remaning crossgrain but you can try Flitz or Semi chrome, just go about it lightly with a very soft cloth if the Sudsy doesn't do the trick.
My 2 cents worth.
EW
|
|
|
#3030
05/05/2009 04:10 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 7,259 Likes: 1
|
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 7,259 Likes: 1 |
If all else fails; take your blade to a clock repair shop and ask then to put it in their ultrasonic cleaner. This is what they use to clean old clock movements and it's very effective in removing dried oil and other gunk. Jim
|
|
|
#3031
07/18/2009 08:55 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,430 Likes: 2
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,430 Likes: 2 |
|
|
|
Forums42
Topics31,672
Posts329,144
Members7,527
|
Most Online5,900 Dec 19th, 2019
|
|
8 members (Stephen, Skyline Drive, Nietzsche, ed773, Tanker, fliegerassi, Dave, Documentalist),
512
guests, and
57
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
|