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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55
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OP
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55 |
Hello
I'm looking at an RLB 2nd Pattern dagger a local dealer has for sale.
It's not in the best condition (the price is right) I know but could you guys please give me your opinion as to anything i should be concerened about. Photos attached.
Thanks for your help.
Merlin
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55
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OP
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55 |
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55
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OP
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55 |
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55
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OP
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55 |
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55
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OP
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55 |
Could anyone help confirm my thoughts, I like that the grip looks to be dark wood like ebony from the chip, there appears to be good detail to the crossguard swastika and the swas on th grip emblem is enamEled. The wear to the scabbard appears to match the dagger and hanger. I dont like the way the grip emblem is fixed, it doesnt look straight and the blade looks in too poor condition considering its spent its life in the scabbard, could it be a replacement or new made to look aged? Some of the eagle definition looks a little basic around the eye.
If i can get photos of the blade tang what markings, if any, should I be looking for?
Any help / comments would be most appreciated.
Thanks
Merlin
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,134 Likes: 24
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,134 Likes: 24 |
It looks like an original, albeit salty example of a 2nd model EM dagger. Is there a maker mark? I believe some tangs were marked & some were not. If you're going to take the dagger down, BE VERY CAREFUL turning the pommel. The ebony on these grips is very brittle & you can chip or flake it if the pommel was tightened too much previously. I speak from unfortunate experience in this.
GDC Gold Badge #290
GDC Silver Badge #310
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Joined: Sep 2010
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OP
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 55 |
Thanks for your help Billy G.
As far as I'm aware there is no makers mark, which I hope I'm right in thinking is common for this pattern of dagger. I have requested some additonal photos including the pommel which will help my decision. In the meanwhile thanks for your advice as to 'take down' I don't think i will attempt it judging by the experience you've had.
Could you (or anyone) recommend a good polish or cleaning process for the blade, someone mentioned Simichrome but I've never used anything on the rest of my collection, however the blade on this looks like it needs some TLC.
Thanks for your time.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,814 Likes: 18
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,814 Likes: 18 |
Simichrome is an abrasive, if you use it, be very gentle and very careful.
I ususally use Renwax and a very soft cloth to clean blades and grips and scabbards. Renwax is not abrasive and will coat and protect the surface.
John
Always looking for Eickhorns and etched bayonets.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,134 Likes: 24
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,134 Likes: 24 |
As usual, I agree with John. If you're using Simichrome, less is more. Use it gingerly as you can't undo damage you do with it. Renwax is more of a preservative than an abrasive, sometimes Simichrome is needed but it takes some practice so you know what you're doing & don't remove crossgraining. Best to have someone show you at a show or a collector friend who's more experienced.
GDC Gold Badge #290
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OP
Joined: Sep 2010
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Thank you for your help & advice.
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