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#250444 08/16/2011 11:15 PM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 70
lleno Offline OP
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Posts: 70
Picked this up a few weeks ago from an collector I know,opinions?? It's a numbers matching bayo,Gebr. Heller maker mark..also stamped 1939,looking for an frog to go wiht it.Do the frogs have period variations?? Thanks,Lenny

fp4_600x450.jpg (91.51 KB, 139 downloads)
m1934 019_600x450.jpg (60.69 KB, 139 downloads)
m1934 022_600x450.jpg (97.96 KB, 139 downloads)
m1934 023_600x450.jpg (97.46 KB, 139 downloads)
m1934 026_600x450.jpg (60.07 KB, 138 downloads)
Last edited by leonard; 08/16/2011 11:23 PM.
lleno #250453 08/17/2011 02:07 AM
Joined: Apr 2007
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Nice first bayonet.Look after that surface rust on scabbard.

Todd #250469 08/17/2011 10:37 AM
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lleno Offline OP
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What can be done about the surface rust/scabbard?? I'd like to try and retain the original bluing....thanks,Lenny smile

lleno #250519 08/18/2011 04:37 AM
Joined: May 2008
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Originally Posted By: leonard
Do the frogs have period variations??



Many are dated on the back!

Cheers, Lance

lmrobil #250592 08/19/2011 05:45 PM
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lleno Offline OP
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What can I do about the surface rust??Is it advisible to prep and re-blue the scabbard???[probably not....]Any advice??Thanks,Lenny cool

lleno #250596 08/19/2011 08:54 PM
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Do not reblue it.I've been told W/D40 or something similar with the finest grade of steel wool will work,use light pressure + circular motion.Other members might have other suggestions.I usually just put gun oil on it till I have time to clean it properly.

Todd

Todd #250788 08/22/2011 03:25 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
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Rust on something like a bayonet can be a lite surface rust to patches of deep corrosion. The former can often be removed with little effect to the underlying finish. The latter is much more problematical. It is hard to eliminate, and removal will usually result in patches of pitted metal devoid of finish.

In my experience, I have found Break-Free to work the best. When I first used the product, there was a noticeable improvement between it and other rust inhibitors like WD40. Break-Free actually dissolves the rust and causes it to crumble. I apply it over the affected areas & let it soak for a day or so. Using a nickle (the older ones and not the excuses for coinage the US mint produces today) knock down the bumps. Many bayonets & scabbards exhibit some machining or finishing marks. If present, always move the coin with the "grain" of the metal. The nickle will not harm the surface. Add more Break-Free & continue to work the area, but avoid over-doing it. Wiping all the liquid from the bayonet will result in a brown residue.

Now you can apply more BF onto the bayonet/scabbard. Carefully using #0000 steel wool, litely work the metal surface; again paying particular attention to the "grain" of the metal. When finished, wipe down the surface thoroughly. This should produce as good a result as one is likely to get. Sometimes with a heavy, rusty concretion, after soaking in BF, you can use a new, sharp razor blade to remove the rust. One must use caution here, and avoid continuing your scrape onto the unaffected metal. However, with a bit of patience & skill, this often can work out quite well.

Last edited by FredM; 08/22/2011 03:30 PM.

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