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#135355 10/24/2007 11:18 PM
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Hello guys.
I come from a Japanese sword collecting background where it is common place and historically correct to have blades repolished in order to keep their value. In fact it can very much enhance the value of a blade and some collectors pay up to $10,000 dollars to have their swords polished by a master.
I am also sure that a German soldier would have had to keep his arms in top physical condition as part of normal military duty and so cannot see how it is correct from any perspective that daggers be left in less than perfect condition.
What do you think?


tread lightly
#135356 10/24/2007 11:50 PM
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Be it known or unknown,right or wrong it is done often in this hobby.If it could be done 70 years ago it can be done today.To me it is just like repainting a scabbard.It looks better but not done by the original craftsman.IMO


"Those who do not remember the past are condemned to relive it" Santayana
#135357 10/25/2007 12:33 AM
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Reggie,
I have been collecting German daggers for a cople years and just recently bought a few japanese family blades. So I am learning about how differenly the two areas are.

The Rigid German dagger collectors realy want the piece un-messed with in period condition. In most cases if there is damage is more desirable not to enhance or restore IMO.


I was realy suprised to learn how most family blades were re-fit with scabbards and grips after they were passed down. With the Jappanese its all about the blade. Just learning about Japanese steel and you could probobly teach me volumes. Smile


ERIC

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#135358 10/25/2007 02:57 AM
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Eric, I spent a couple of years learning nothing about Japanese swords. A starting point though (in the process of learning nothing) would have to be the NBTHK museum in Tokyo.
Best source of internet info is www.nihontomessageboard.com BUT not for the posts, for the drop downs at the top of the page like Japanese Sword Index, really informative.
I sadly only have one sword and one tsuba now, kept as they came from my mates town in Kyushu.
A great interest though for sure. I wish you well in it.


tread lightly
#135359 10/25/2007 07:55 AM
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Two issues spring to mind, many German daggers have crossgain which collectors like to see intact, and further polishing will usually remove it completely. The other issue is blade mottos and trademarks, polishing will usually effect the darkening within the motto and in worse cases will cause the sharp edges of the etching to round off. Also, many times its actaully the aging of the steel which creates greying or blemishes which acnnot be polished off anyway.

As you rightly say, they are quite different areas of collecting and preservation.

Red

#135360 10/25/2007 05:27 PM
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I ALSO HAVE SERIOUSLY COLLECTED JAPANESE SWORDS FOR MANY YEARS. I MUST AGREE WITH MY COLLEAGUES THAT A GERMAN DAGGER IS BEST LEFT ALONE EXCEPT FOR CLEANING. SOME OF THE BIG DEALERS IN DAGGERS BUFF THEIR WARES TO A HIGH SHEEN. I PERSONALLY PREFER MY DAGGERS WITH THE NATURAL AGE PATINA ON THE METAL FITTINGS.
BOB


"A man needs to know his limitations" Dirty Harry
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#135361 10/25/2007 09:55 PM
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I agree with Bob better to leave them be.

#135362 10/25/2007 10:38 PM
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Erich, yes let them be, so long as there is no on going deteriation, such as rust or the green gunk on nickle or brass/copper fittings, then, at least with respect for the piece, stop that. Personally, I like to clean em once, for me, then let em go after that, many collectors would be suprised at how many imperfections will be 'hidden' on an uncleaned piece.

Nolan


The older I get the better I was!
#135363 10/25/2007 11:19 PM
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I agree with most of the above. Japanese swords and SA/SS daggers are different. Japanese swords are often repolished (at great expense) without any loss of value if done correctly.

The daggers, on the other hand, loose a considerable portion of their value if there is evidence of polishing. That is because most of this is done with a polishing wheel which gives the blade a visibly different surface, removes the chemical darkening in the motto and trademark and erodes their usually crips edges.

If you want to do something good, take the dagger apart and wash the blade with dishwashing soap and dry it well. That should take the crud and grease of it. Then put wax or oil lightly on it.

If you need advice with the other bits, let us know Big Grin

Dave

#135364 10/26/2007 01:56 AM
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I do not agree with Dave. NEVER oil the blade! Eek

#135365 10/26/2007 03:10 AM
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wouldnt oil make stuff stick to it more? sorta like armor-alling ur dash board..

#135366 11/04/2007 05:59 AM
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Just guessing but do you mean clove oil Dave. And only the lightest of applications to prevent rusting?


tread lightly
#135367 11/04/2007 11:58 AM
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Never oil a blade. Any moisture under the oil will damage the blade. If you use a Renwax, make sure you polish the wax well. Unpolished wax also attracts moisture.

#135368 11/04/2007 01:24 PM
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Guys,

I have used oil on blades for years. Gun oil, model train oil, 3-in-1 oil, you name it. A light film on a dry blade works fine. It protects the surface, just like it does with guns. Most waxes and silicon work well too.

Dave

#135369 11/04/2007 02:38 PM
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I think the oil or no oil is a personal preference. I have seen both on hundreds of blades and the conclusion I have come to is...a little goes a long way whether it's oil or Renwax.

Check your blades carefully every six months or so and above all...keep the humidity under control. That, is the biggest challenge in my experience.

Mark Cool

#135370 11/04/2007 03:05 PM
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IMO: Either oil or wax will work as a protector. My issue with oil is that it attracts air born dirt particles which will act as an abrasive on any surface. The airborn dust in Arizona will get into anything creating a real challenge and that's one of the reasons automotive manufacturers test vehicles here. I don't know what the long term effect would be for the surface of a highly finished blade.
Jim

#135371 11/04/2007 11:39 PM
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It would be interesting to really know which of a thin coat of oil, wax, or silicone (sp?) would hold the most fine dust. I suspect that there might be little difference.

The key good preservation IMO would be to keep your eyes on you stuff, check it at intervals and take special precautions in harsh environments such as salt air or high humidity.

Dave


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