How high is The value on a matching ostsee k98 bayonet?
/Fredrik
Based upon my history,
Matching K98s (I know that is not the correct term for these combat bayonets, but it is the one we all use) sell for $150-500 depending on condition and rarity.. ie. 44 and 45 dated bayonets tend to sell for more. I paid $450 for a matching cof 44 from e-bay.
All matching Ostsee or Nordsee marked bayonets (all matching being that the bayonet number and year match and that the Nordsee or Ostsee markings also match), go for $400 to well over $1,000. This range is so wide due to the particularity of demand. If you have the right one and the right buyer, then the pricing is in the stratosphere.
For example, I would pay a stupid price for a nice matching cof 40 Ostsee, and nothing for any other Ostsee.
Hope this helps.
John
It would be nice to see any picture of the piece. thanks.b.r.Andy
It would be nice to see any picture of the piece. thanks.b.r.Andy
Not a bad idea for multiple reasons. It could be compared to known recorded examples adding the new information (and even the admittedly remote possibility of a postwar addition of the markings). Best Regards, Fred
Thanks for pictures, looks like is a WuK matching number, unfortunally the blade was polished by removing rust, so the remains of blueing are gone.The range of Ostsee KM property markings is correct, could You provide how is blade spine marked, year last 2 digits, proof Eagle/61 or Su/25? thanks.b.r.Andy
Frog looks like new lack or the upper rivets are hiden by coat? or the lower rivets are replacements?any KM proofs on backside?
Where all bayonets bluened? Even the pre 1930? Its a marking on The spine but i can't read it because it has a rust spot just where the marking should bee.
Thats a good question, but since 1932 all bayonets S84/98 and other used in Army were blued, so this was blued too, when a rust on spine, there is a reason why someone polished the surface to clean the light rust.On spine should be date and proof, Weimar eagle over 61(49) or Su25 b.r.Andy
Other proofs should be on ball finial, guard and pommel and under grips.
As You could see the pommel and guard same as scabbard has remains of blueing, the WuK on blade would be not dark when not blued, same as in fullers are remains of rust and blueing that was cleaned, even it was done well and mashinelly.
In agreement with Andy's assessment, it's also possible that it was reworked at some point which is not at all uncommon with these scarce early bayonets. With my reason being that the opposite side of the pommel seems to show the obverse side of the press stud not even (flush) with the rest of the pommel. Best Regards, Fred