I thought I would throw this out to see what others have done or currently do. I recently purchased an out of the woodwork M1933 SS RZM 7/14 1936 dagger complete with vertical hanger (RZM 1/36 SS maker marked). I need to get photos but am laid up with a hand surgery. After inspecting the dagger and removing the hanger I discovered that the areas beneath the hanger were coated with the "green gunk". Of course, this adds to originality but I have no doubts as it came from the vet's estate via his widow. I have noted it on the hangers of several of my other daggers where the earlier nickel silver fittings come in contact with leather.

Anyway, I've grown to appreciate patina bit regard the verdigris as an extreme vorm of actual corrosion that I feel should be removed and/or neutralized. My questions are how do you stop/remove the verdigris ideally without destroying the patina? Do others agree that verdigris is detrimental to a dagger?

The hand says it is time to rest.

Thanks for the help!

Verdigris will etch nickel silver (if it has not already) and will help rot leather. Bad stuff.

Getting it off without reducing oxidation (patina) is difficult. Maybe soap and water ?

Also, FYI, verdigris can be made to order by mashing Crayola crayons in an evaporative solvent. Sellers swear by it as proof that their piece has not been "messed with", but is not really true.

Advice: Take your lead from museums. They don't shine up their edged weapons, but they let them deteriorate either.

What was your Hand operation? Mike

Thanks Dave. I like the idea of less is more. I suppose since verdigris is actually a copper oxide it could damage leather. Leather preservation is a subject I have struggled with for years (do it or don't). Worked a bit of research for the k98 board years ago. I'll consider the soap and water.....metal stuff only.

Mike - Bilateral carpal tunnel correction surgery. Did one the end of Ocober, that is now near healed but did the other last Friday.

I normally leave daggers and swords "untouched," if possible. However, I acquired an early SS model dagger that had a really bad case of grunge on the crossguards. Some also on the scabbard fittings, but not as bad. The crossguard was an "advanced case" and I knew what it can do to nickel-silver. So, I obtained some fine steel wool and used good old Brasso on the nickel-silver, going lightly and letting the Brasso do most of the work. After two or three applications, all looked well, not overly polished or with scratches on the surfaces. To my surprise, a few weeks later, I noticed the nickel-silver had toned down to what most would describe as a desirable patina. The guards and scabbard fittings matched perfectly. I can't say this will work on all grunge to a satisfactory degree and am not sure what it would do to plated fittings. I do know it was more than satisfactory on this one dagger.

Thanks Grumpy. I will likely start with the least aggressive measure suggested by Dave - soap and water. If this doesn't do it, I will follow more aggressive techniques. All is on hold until the dressing is removed from my hand since it is not to get wet...frustrating sitting around like this. Your point on the potential to see different results between nickel-silver and plated fittings is a good one that I must take into consideration.

On the same subject I found this of interest. Since it seems that most agree that verdigris is not "healthy" I found the following text in a description for an SS dagger on a vendor's site rather perplexing......

"The dagger is equipped with all nickel mounts throughout. These mounts have a dull nickel patination and there is also some green waxy type spots spread around which I always love to see as they somehow give old nickel a great look. These green spots can be cleaned off but there is really no need to do it as they are not threatening the nickel in the slightest."

Corrosion is "bad" is it not?!

Various people have opinions on this. I have seen what it can do to nickel silver, so I'll stick with mine.