My signature Pack dagger group marked "B" has a few cracks in it that was not there before. I will post photos later, but I need to know a couple of things to stop this dangerous progression.
#1 What would be the correct tang nut tightness?
#2 can I use a wood glue to smear inside of the cracks and use a small "sure grip" device but with enough pressure to hold it shut until the glue drys?? All replys welcomed Larry

Can you provide pics?

Ok here are a few photos,, but I still need the 2 questions answered.

And can I use this to squeeze the crack shut with just enough pressure to hold it until the wood glue dries? I dont want to make a horrible mistake without the consult of the more seasoned members concerning this problem. Best Larry

Usually a snug finger tight is good enough. I would suggest using Super Glue. It bonds tight and fast, usually within a minute or two. The problem with repairing SA grips is that the repair is going to be evident regardless of how it is done. If you can press the crack closed with your fingers, the clamp would not be needed. If you use the clamp, cushion the grip so you don't end up with clamp marks.

Hi Vern, I used super glue once on a wood project a long time ago ( dagger unrelated ) and the glue absorbed into the wood!! so after seeing that happen I fear trying that on SA grip. I am not too sure of that because of what happened in the past and the wood separated eventually. I still would need the clamp because the wood is a little tight to hold together for a time. Larry

For wood use, put a bit on and let it soak in, then put on a bit more and press the parts together. By letting it soak in, the glue will reinforce the wood, especially if it is soft or has a bit of dry rot. It least, that is my experience. When super glue first came out, it was a pain to work with. The later formula works pretty well. You could use Elmer's Carpenter Glue, or Elmer's Wood Glue. Both should work well for you.

Hi Vern I appreciate the info and I just happen to have the Elmers wood glue,,,but if you may can you tell me about the tang nut tightness? I know that might play a major part in furthering the crack since the pressure is would be coming straight down. When pushing anything in a downward motion,,the bottom of the item will spread. When I finish gluing and after it dries I dont want to put alot of unwanted pressure on the grip,, so what would be an ideal tightness? Larry

Like I mentioned above, turn the pommel nut by hand to snug finger tight. The grip shouldn't move but that's all you need

Quote:
"My signature Pack dagger group marked "B" has a few cracks in it that was not there before."

I would be interested in knowing where you live and the environmental conditions there. IMO: Grips on WW II period dagger shouldn't just start cracking unless they have been recently exposed to a new environment. The reason I bring this up is since I'm located in the Southwest US where extremely low humidity is normal keeping wood well waxed is essential. When I relocated here from the Midwest 15 years ago I immediately started having problems with handcrafted furniture I had built years before from cherry and walnut.
I would recommend that the owner consider at least an annual waxing of the wood grips of his daggers if low humidity is an issue.
Jim

Hey Jim, I live in New Jersey, humidity is bad during the summer but thats when they get put into a controlled climate, until the fall comes again. I will try the wax. what is a good brand name?
The latest crack is in pic #3 on the side of the grip. the crack on the reverse of the grip has been there for years,, so it is the front and the side that has happened. The tang nut on this dagger is on the loose side because i done want to put anymore pressure on it,,,then again it is no win situation because maybe the looseness of the tang nut is making the wood expand.
Hate to this this happen to my first dagger. Larry

Larry:
The only thing that comes to mind is when the humidity goes up your dagger grips are absorbing moisture and when you turn the A/C on the moisture rapidly dissipates causing the cracking. Perhaps someone else from your area can comment on their experiences. I would suggest you store your daggers in a cabinet with some of the moisture absorbing packets they sell for storing guns along with at least an annual waxing. Ren Wax is a perennial favorite for dagger conservation but I've always used Flitz's Gun Wax. However any good quality paste wax should be fine.
Jim

I'm happy to live with my daggers in their natural environment of central Europe, so I do not have a problems like yours, Larry, but I talked once to a guy who repaired few grips, I even used to have one early Eickhorn with missing chunk nicely replaced by him (I think most of you know the early Eicks' grips like to have some typical faults). So, the guy used always a wood glue and was happy with the results. If I were you, I would use wood glue plus quick grip (be sure to protect the wood). The Vern's method (super glue) must be good as well, I'll keep it in my memory.
In case of such "fragile" grip the tang nut should be as tight as power of your fingers allow to. You will not overdo it.

Thank you Vern,Jim and Adam,,for your input. I used the Elmers carpenters glue and I liked the outcome. The cracks are still there but not as noticeable as before. The Macro mode on my camera works quite excellent and sometimes too good to where it shows excellent detail. To look at the handle with just the human eye ( and a pair of glasses) does not look bad at all,, after the gluing. I am happy with it. Also a big thanks on the tang nut tightness. Jim I will pay more careful attention to the "Humidity and air conditioned environment) That is good to know. Right now it is cold and will be that way until spring time,, so the air is dry here. Thanks again Larry