Okay, they are not "anodized," but many still call them that. Has anyone found a product to coat and protect these scabbards that also helps to deepen their lustre in appearance? Some types of oil and grease work well, as far as appearance, but they are messy, attract dust and have to be wiped down occasionally with a new application. Is there a wax or other product that serves the needed purpose without being sticky and not needing frequent re-applications? Thanks in advance.
I use Ren-Wax but I'm interested in any other suggestions
What actually was the process used to obtain the finish on the so called 'anodized' SS scabbards.
I dont own an SS now but I've seen and handled a few and the colour varied from real deep black thro dark/lighter grey to the classic 'gun blue' as seen on firearms. Different processes per manufacturer?, or a standard process used by all, but affected by time?
Would like to know , thanx.
Adrian
I use a type of wax also. It's some stuff that I got from someone who owns an auto detail shop and it isn't available to the general public. I've also used this on firearms with good success.
Jim
From what little I know about it, the process is an oxidation, like gun bluing. Originally, the oxidized finish was coated with a clear lacquer or something similar. I believe the SS scabbards were pretty much a deep blue-black originally, regardless of manufacturer. It's my opinion only, but it appears the browning seen on SA scabbards held up better over time than did the SS finish. In any case, the SS finish did not last well, especially once the clear coat was gone or partially gone. Leaving the bare finish without treating or protecting it in some way led to the same results you see on a firearm whose blued parts have been neglected. It seems the clear coat would not adhere well to the oxidized finish over time. Some SS dagger owners painted the scabbards when the finish began to look shoddy and, of course, the "anodizing" process was given up in favor of factory-painted finishes eventually.
It's a rust blueing process. A company in Brussels still sells the original formula for both the black and brown. But it is a slow process and any oil in the scabbard will ruin the finish.
All 'anodized' scabbards I have seen were at least at one time painted over with clear laquer. As long as that coating is intact one should be able to treat it like any other painted scabbard. If there is no laquer left it will aways have a flat sheen, no matter what you do. This is why they painted them (with clear laquer) in the first place.
I think the whole process was explained and discussed several years ago in detail right here on the Forum. The old threads probably could be found using the search feature of the website. Just trying to help. I'm not good at explaining things and don't really remember all of the details of the process. JohnJ