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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 546
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OP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 546 |
again , another case / box. this one for my 1920 commercial navy.
this one I used "velvet on the bottom section. hand painted the logos on to the satin. firearm with a mag & with 2 extra mags. also a take down tool & cleaning rod.
I figured out the date by the serial number. a hair away from being mint. thank you for looking. jeff
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 265
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 265 |
You're hand painting is very nice! Thanks for taking the time to show us, Ian.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,017
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,017 |
Never argue with an idiot, he will only drag you down to his level and beat you with experience. And remember the early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,886 Likes: 36
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,886 Likes: 36 |
That is very nice work, well done!
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 54
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 54 |
Can I ask, in general what do you look for in a collectible Luger? I know all matching numbers and condition but what else? What year is most collectible and what sort of price range for good stuff, (deactivated)?
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 546
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OP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 546 |
Manxman. 1ST , I hate hearing the word deactivated.... but I do understand.
it's a personal taste I guess.
I own a 4 inch = 1918, 6 inch (navy)1920 commercial , & a 8 inch (art.) 1916 dated. I never sought these out, they all came to me at different times.
some don't want third reich at all , others that's all they want.
Can not comment on deactive prices myself .
most seem over priced in general, plus some sellers do not account for all original parts, or do not account for the overall original condition.
just a luger , price it high. jeff
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