As most of you know ..I'm not heavy into blades the way many of you are. I own 2 SS Daggers , nothing super rare or in mint condition but , I like 'em.. here's my Herder

Bought it from a good friend of mine a few months ago ...it came from an old collection and , it was stored in a case resting against some sort of foam that fell apart , and left marks on the blade. Any ideas on how to clean the blade?

The stains from the foam almost look like a thin varnish wearing off

back

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What have you tried so far to get them off? Will they rub off with a dry cotton cloth?

You mentioned semichrome ? I'm totally knew to anything re Dagger cleaning or restoration so ..I don't even know what that is ...where can I buy it ?

I didn't try anything yet ...didn't want to damage the blade and , wasn't sure about some Polish or creams having any abrasives hidden in them so , didn't want to chance it

It looks like a very nice original dagger. I am sure you will get many responses on cleaning the blade but I would not use anything abrassive. Thanks for sharing it.

It's a strange effect ..not a rust , almost like a film or glue of some sort

Fittings

it doesn't look like it's ever been played with or cleaned ..looks like surface rust under the black paint

Mike, a lot of it depends on how hard the residue is to get off the blade. I would try just using a soft cotton cloth and wipe with the crossgraining. If that doesn't bring it off easily then the blade can be washed I believe...although some of the other guys can give better info on that than me. I've never washed a blade. If the foam hasn't etched the stains into it then they should come off reletively easy. Simichrome is a midly abrasive jewellers polish. It's available from the GDC site store. You might want to read back through the restoration & maintenance forum. There are a few good threads on cleaning blades there.

stain

the green's been "growing" for years

By the way...it is a nice piece indeed. Hopefully that residue is just on the surface, it would clean up nicely.

Thanks Bill ...I'll check it out.
Funny how the rating scale seems to have changed , I bet years ago this would have been rated a 5 out of 10 condition ...now it's prob considered a 6+ condition

You could use some Brillo or sandpaper (a fine grit) or send Vern an e-mail he can usually cure what ails on a dagger blade.As a matter of fact use the second option.Looks like a nice piece once it's cleaned up some and get rid of the "green"

If you can get the blade to clean up I believe it would rate better than that. The grip looks to be in pretty good shape...no cracks and just a few very minor flakes.

That is not "stain". That is actually microscopic pitting if you look at it under a loupe. It's the decaying of the polished mirror surface of the steel. It will not come off the way a stain might. If you were to restore this blade it must be repolished and that may reduce its value.

There you go....learn something new everyday.

Not the news I was hoping to hear ..is that common?

quote:

Originally posted by Ed Martin:
You could use some Brillo or sandpaper (a fine grit)

Ed ..doesn't sound like you were far off

To restore a blade in that condition it takes an expert using Japanese water stones or a buffing wheel with the right compounds. Even an expert is going to have a b*tch of a time not hitting the burnishing in the motto and trademark. Suppose you find an "expert" to do the job. Now you have a refurbished new-like blade and a "been there" looking grip. Are you going to get the grip restored too? I say leave it the way it is. Clean the blade with a solution of hot water and sudsy ammonia, dry thoroughly with a terrycloth towel or hairdryer and it will do wonders for what you have got.

I'll try washing it as you said ...I can't see having a "new" blade and a worn handle and scabbard. The old collector stored it out of the scabbard for God know how many years so ...maybe the moisture and sitting on the foam did it. Since it hasn't been in the sheath for years , I'm afraid to slide it in because I don't have any idea what's in there
I'll try taking it apart first to clean it out.
Thanks for the tips.

Here's what to do:

No rocket science. Take the dagger apart using a 3/8" or 10mm wrench that has been ground flat enough to fit the nut on the top. Then:

1. wash the blade in dish liquid and water. If there is a sticky or tacky residue use a stronger( but not abrasive) cleaner like 409 or Clorox clean-up, but don't leave it on the blade for very long at all. Dry the blade well. That is probably as good as it is going to look.

2. If you want to, clean the crossguards. Yours look tarnished. They are very pretty tough so you can use Brasso or Tarnite or Simichrome. Don't try to take all the tarnish off at once. Go in easy stages until you like the looks. Don't use a buffing wheel or any power tools. Same applies to the upper and lower scabbard fittings, just be careefull to not get any on the paint.

3. If the grip has crud on it, try wiping it down with a damp paper towel. If necessary use 0000 steel wool lightly and carefully. Then decide it you want it darker. If you do, try a coat of black shoe polish. Let it dry and gently shine the grip with a paper towel. You may want to aim for a "used but well maintained" look.

Put it back together and hang it on the wall. You can put light oil or wax on the blade, but just keeping it clean by wiping will probably do unless you are near a salt breeze.

The blade is not going to look any better without a rework and those almost always leave evidence of the work. Many time it ruins the blade. In my opinion, a dagger looks better with honest wear than with evidence of a face lift.

Dave

Thanks Dave ..I'll find a wrench that fits and I'll wash it (I won't trust any KP's don't worry ) As far as the scabbard ..I never took one apart but ..I'll try it and I should be able to use steel wool on the runners to get any surface rust off and clean it out ..I'll post how it turns out next week.
Thanks

In my opinion, sudsy ammonia is superior to dish liquid. It is less likely to leave a film because it evaporates with the hot water. The reason you want to use hot water is because it heats the blade and that causes the solution to evaporate.

I would strongly advise against trying to use steel wool to clean the runners if you intend on inserting it into the scabbard. The chances of getting steel filaments caught in the runners is too great and those would further damage the blade. I suggest using a thin piece of metal wrapped tightly in a skin of an old T-shirt. You can get the metal strips at most hardware or hobby stores.

If you take down the dagger get yourself a Pflueger fishing reel wrench. They work perfectly and do not have to be ground at all.

Great tip on the reel wrench. I just tried a Penn reel wrench, and it fits perfectly.

The fishing reel counter at Walmart will usually give you one for free if you ask.

I stand corrected. My wrench is also a Penn. Too many fishing reels...

MIKE STOP! PLEASE!

If that is some kind of residue, it can easily be removed with some plain old Carbuerator Cleaner from the Auto Zone! The Spray type for .99 a can. Keep it away from the Grip! Best stuff there is and leaves NO RESIDUE! Just spray it on and wipe it down with a soft Cloth. I use that when refinishing scabbards or doing any kind of metal fitting cleanup! You will, of course not remove any scratches or pits because there is NO abrasive in it. But it will be CLEAN! Also fine to use on crossguards or any other metal, but take the dagger apart before using it on Crossguards because you don't want to get it on the wood! Also, DON'T use it on anything Painted, like the scabbard shell, as it removes EVERYTHING.

3-Finger Louie

Mike, To do the Grip, go to a gun shop and get some "Birchwood - Casey" Stock Sheen and Conditioner. It will clean the wood and restore the surface nicely. It will also give the grip a nice satin finish that is not a varnish or anything permanent. The Carb Cleaner is Great Stuff, I buy it by the Case to use in doing restorations. 3FL

Mike, Also, after you clean all the metal, spray it down with some kind of protectant because the cleaner will remove any oils or other protectants that were on it originally. I use "Micro-Mist" which is an effervescent Oil spray used by Machinists on dies and tools. Also used by Aircraft Manufacturers. It comes out like a foam stuff that fizzes off leaving a nice protective oil that penetrates, doesn't ever change color and is easily removed if neccesary, with Carb Cleaner! ;^) The number for "Micro-Mist" is 972-875-8995 and a 13 oz. spray can will last you the rest of your natural life! A TINY spritz will do a whole dagger. 3FL

If the residue is on the surface you might try isopropyl alcohol from the bathroom on a clean square of cotton.

heard a Dremal tool fit perfect too.

Mike, I believe Unclheve is kidding! Please DO NOT use a Dremel tool on it!

Hi Guys ...Been at work so , didn't have a chance to reply or take it apart yet but I really do appreciate all the help here. I wonder if Unclheve was talking about using the small wrench that comes with the Dremel Tool (to change the bits). I won't be able to try anything until Monday night ..I do have some Carb Cleaner Louie so , I'll try that but , maybe I'll try the Alcohol first since it's not as strong (maybe I'll get lucky)
I hope it's not pitting but ..we'll see
It's been a few years since I've even checked out my other SS (don't even remember what make it is) ..so , once this one's cleaned up , the other one's next. I also have a small stack of common Daggers that have not been touched for years as well ...I guess it's time I learn a few tips from you all and start cleaning them huh?

Mike you are not rebuilding a carburetor. The blade of a dagger is not an engine part. Trust me on the hot water sudsy ammonia solution. If you use the solvents suggested by 3FL you run the risk of removing any original black burnishing in the motto and trademark.

yes i'm a newbie but even i know not to use the dremel on a dagger. i was talking about the wrench. sorry, i didn't see the Page 2 & was responding to the subject matter at the end of Pg. 1. I called about the "micro-oil" & you have to buy it by the case.( it's good to live in Texas where they sell most of it to the oil industry. if you know where i can buy a single can , let me know. thanx fellows, con't to learn. steve

Very Interesting read from 10 years ago.:)

3-finger Louie...:)..there's a blast from the past