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#329894 06/24/2017 09:46 PM
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Ok so I just got a navy dagger, ill try to post pics when I can. Its an f&w howler. So I want to know first how do you properly clean the blade without harming the domascis? Or is it a really bad idea to clean it at all? Also is the portepe for these the same as army and luftwaffe type? The standard silver bullion acorn knot for just a regular type 2 navy dagger. I appreciate the help, I live out in the sticks now and I guess i'm out of internet time, I use to get unlimited with wifi but that was up north. Everything times out before I can even post a pic or anything unless its between 2am and 8 am.

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Where do you live in NC ?

Dave #329903 06/25/2017 12:12 AM
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In willard like 30 miles from Wilmington.

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I'm in Cary .. outside of Raleigh. dave@germandaggers.com

I think your Navy might be F.W. Holler if you look closely. Don't try to clean the blade or anything else. Post pictures or email them to me. Portepee will depend on what you have.

Dave
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Dave #329908 06/25/2017 04:35 AM
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Hello Wuldntuliktono,
you can see a few KM daggers by F.W.Höller on my website
https://www.kriegsmarinedolch.de/höller-f-w/
Best,
Oleg.


Greater love has no one than this: to lay down his life for his friends.

John, 15:13

www.kriegsmarinedolch.de
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Yea as soon as I got home last night before I even looked I realized my mistake. I ment to saw EuF Horster not FWHowler, then it would be a rare blade. Trying to do it from memory screwed me up, ill be able to post pics the 1st of the month. I paid 400 for it, it has a chip in the handle (as alot do) and a couple dings in the scabbard, but overall its a good piece. Im still quite young so whenever I can get a nice maker marked piece at a decent price I scoop it right up. I havent touched it yet, Im always careful and cautious before I mess with historical pieces. I am looking to add a portepe to it tho, thats why I asked if its just a standard aluminium silver portepe.

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The Navy ports or different from the Army ports.
They are longer, for the added length needed to tie the Navy. And the knots are different also.
Meda Militaria in the advertising section has a few, you can see the difference.
Not sasy to locate the Navy's, and will cost you half what you have in the dagger, but thats the fun of this all.
Good luck, and happy hunting, Ed

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They have one up there for 100 a bit frayed but thats really what I was looking for. Thanks for the help. Any suggestions on cleaning it? Its not that dirty so is it best to just leave it alone? Ive never cleaned a dagger before so even if I should leave the navy dagger alone whats a good product to use and what kind of cloth would work? I have electric guitars would a cleaning cloth for one of them be ok? What about just a dry rub down with a cloth?

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Cleaning a German dagger is not a good thing for future value, IMO. The etch on Navy daggers would be best just lightly wiped with something like semi-chrome and a very soft cloth, or some light oil. You should wait for as much input as you can get before doing much to it. Just keep thinking, LIGHTLY.
Congrats on your new purchase, and good hunting in the future.
Ed

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DO NOT USE Simichrome on etches. It is abrasive and will remove part of the etch.

IMHO, the best thing to use to partially clean and to protect blades, fittings, scabbards, leather, etc is Renwax, a non petroleum wax.

John


Always looking for Eickhorns and etched bayonets.
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John
Lightly, was the term I used to help. By no means did I mean load up the blade with semi or anything else and scrub it. I have used semi, blue magic, and others to remove finger print residue and build up of years of neglect on blades and used lightly have not harmed the etch of any blade. I guess 30 years of painting cars and detail, I always want to remove any STUFF before I wax it in for good. Just wanted to clear it up. LIGHT! LIGHT! LIGHT!

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You know it is easy to overdo an abrasive cleaner...just saying.


Always looking for Eickhorns and etched bayonets.
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Yes, I know what you mean. Just got back from the OVMS Ohio show, saw tons of blades that looked like they were buffed with HD rubbing compound on a buffing wheel.Not sure why some sellers have to WIZ there daggers, but to each his own.
I have a worse time finding US fighting knifes that are not all messed with. Have a great day, Ed

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Thanks for all the help guys I just ordered that naval portepe which will cover up the chip in the handle and Ive decided to leave this blade alone. I know what you guys mean by stuff at shows being WAY to shiney and buffed. These daggers are 70 to 80 years old and really are supposed to look the part, most of the crud is the buffer pad which is worn in good, so it wont really hurt it. The scanbard is on the wrong way, I tried reversing it and not only was I worried about the tip catching the ding and bending the tip, but it also was very stiff and hard to unlock and redraw out from the scabbard, and since it doesnt have hangers anyways there isnt much harm in it. Im gonna eventually get this one into my final solid oak locking display case, I found 3 of them clearing out my parents house in CT and put them right to use. Right now the daggers inside wrapped in bubble wrap in a draw. Ill get pics up on the 1st, it really is in good shape and considering it was 420 all together im happy with it.

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Hey one more question are the orange grips cellulose covered wood to? Or are they thicker? I guess what im asking is are all these prone to the inevitable exponsion or shrinkage of the wood inside the handle unless kept constantly under 100% optimal temp and humidity? Its a shame for that minor flaw because these daggers really shine.

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Hi. The orange grips are not cellulose covered wood.
Best,
Oleg.


Greater love has no one than this: to lay down his life for his friends.

John, 15:13

www.kriegsmarinedolch.de
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Thats good to know, I got internet again so im gonna try and get pictures up today, might have to email dave seeing as last time my photos were garbage. I tied on the knot which covers up the chip up top, it looks good especially for 100 bucks for a nice gold portepe. This blade has the sailing ship etch, does that mean it was an early/tranny? Reading online im seeing most daggers that were born type 2s have the fouled anchor etch. Its definitely brass, really detailed. Its a horster, did they offer both the fouled anchor etch and the sailing ship etch for type 2s or only the anchors. Also the MM is on the top of the blade, not sure if that makes a difference. This ones definitely the best one so far in my small collection, but im sure it wont be the last. The guy I got it from had it for 20 years, he even gave me johnsons volume 7 for free, im almost through reading that book, also read volume 2.

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Took some pics, i tried some different settings on my camera this time, tried some with no flash and natural light, and some with a mode that takes 2 pics one with flash one without, ill see what comes up better. Any suggestions on optimal picture taking? What are good camera settings? I know a few people on the forum take A+ clear as day nice zoomed in professional style textbook pictures, I dont need to get them that good but it would help to at least capture some of the detailing. Now I just gotta find my usb card and wait for tge computer to free up and ill give it a shot, if I cant good pics ill email them out. Still pretty new at this but you guys have helped me out quite a bit thus far and I really do appreciate it guys, thank you!

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Lets see how this works here. These are under natural light, all but one.

rsz_dscf2001.jpg (118.64 KB, 145 downloads)
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rsz_dscf2011.jpg (118.63 KB, 145 downloads)
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That was a lot better then last time. I noticed my other pictures the link already degraded, why is that? Hope you guys can make these out.

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rsz_dscf2015.jpg (118.77 KB, 144 downloads)
rsz_dscf2017.jpg (118.6 KB, 143 downloads)
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Sorry, but a Kriegsmarine dagger by Hörster with an Eickhorn scabbard and sailing ship motif would be not for my collection.
Best,
Oleg.


Greater love has no one than this: to lay down his life for his friends.

John, 15:13

www.kriegsmarinedolch.de
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If just the scabbards a changeover that doesnt bother me any. I was happy just to be able to get a navy dagger at an affordable price.

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After doing more research the blade is definitely good. The stamped MM was not carried over after the war like the etched MM horsters. There is some debate as to if horsters made model 1 navies, but there are definitely some legit ones. The one thing I cant find out about is if they used generic parts. Holler, wkc, eickhorn all made their own parts but the smaller cottage firms is in the grey area. Some like puma seem to have made pommels and such, but its not cut and dry like with army daggers. Just my 2 cents im no expert but im trying to learn as much as I can.


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